Vol. 04 · Issue 14 · APR 2026
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A single Shure SM57 dynamic microphone on a short stand pointed at the grille cloth of a guitar combo amplifier in a small home room
No. 337Gear Lab·June 22, 2026·7 min read

One Mic, Done: Recording a Guitar Amp With a Single SM57

A single SM57 in front of the speaker records most of the guitar tones you love. Here is exactly where to put it, how to find the spot in two minutes, and when a second mic adds nothing but trouble.

Most of the recorded electric guitar you have ever loved was made with one microphone in front of a speaker. Often it was an SM57, the same plain dynamic mic that ends up on snare drums and podium speeches. One mic, a couple inches off the grille, into a preamp. That is the whole rig. The reason it keeps working is not the mic. It is that the speaker is a tone control, and the mic is how you point at the part you want.

This post is about getting a finished guitar sound with a single SM57. Where to put it, how to find the spot fast, and when a second mic is solving a problem you do not have.

The Short Answer

Mic positionWhat it gives youUse it for
Center of the dust capBrightest, most pick attack, can biteDull amps, dark single-coils, clean funk
Edge of the dust capThe balanced starting pointAlmost everything
Out toward the coneRounder, darker, less topBright amps, fizzy high gain, leads
Angled 45 degrees off-axisTrims harsh highs, keeps punchTaming an icy or fizzy track
Pulled back 4 to 6 inchesA little room air, less bassRoomy cleans, when the amp is loud

Put it at the edge of the dust cap, straight on, two or three inches off the cloth. Track a few seconds. Move it if you need to. You will almost never need to.

The Speaker Is the Tone Control

Look at the speaker with the grille off. There is a small dome in the middle. That is the dust cap. Around it is the paper cone that slopes out to the edge.

The dust cap is the bright, aggressive part. The outer cone is the dark, round part. Everything between them is a gradient. The SM57 only hears a few inches of speaker at a time, so when you slide it from center to edge, you are dialing from bright to dark. That move covers more ground than any knob on the amp and any EQ you reach for afterward.

So you stop thinking about the mic. You think about where on the speaker you want to listen. Bright record, bridge pickup, lots of gain. Point at the cone. Dark amp, neck pickup, clean. Point at the cap. The answer is a few inches of travel.

Finding the Spot in Two Minutes

Put the mic at the edge of the dust cap, straight on, close. Record eight bars of the actual part you are going to play. Not a test riff. The real part, at the real volume.

Listen back. Too bright or harsh. Slide the mic a half inch toward the outer cone and record again. Too dull or boxy. Slide it back toward the center. You are bracketing the spot, the way you sneak up on a cut on a table saw. Two or three passes and you are there.

The reason you play the real part is that a chunky open chord and a high single-note line want different spots. Tune the mic to the part, not to a generic strum. Once it sounds right on the part, it is right.

Straight On or Angled

Start straight on. On-axis is the brightest, most direct sound the speaker makes, and most of the time that is what you want, because a recorded guitar usually needs to cut.

If the top end is harsh, if it has a hard edge on it like a pick scrape that will not quit, angle the mic. Turn it about 45 degrees so it is pointed across the speaker instead of straight into it. Off-axis, the highest frequencies fall off first. The harshness goes away and the note keeps its punch. This is the fastest fix for a fizzy high-gain rhythm track, faster than any EQ, and it costs you nothing.

That is the whole adjustment. Distance for low end, position for bright-versus-dark, angle for the harsh top. Three moves.

When a Second Mic Is Not Worth It

The internet will tell you to add a second mic. A room mic for air. A second close mic for blend. Sometimes that is right. Most of the time, for the guitar you are actually recording, it is not.

Here is the trade. The second mic sits at a different distance, so it hears the same note a hair later than the close mic. Add them together and some frequencies cancel. You can scoop a hole right out of the middle of the tone that way, and then you are fighting it. The whole problem and the fixes for it are their own job, covered in the close mic plus room mic breakdown. It is real work.

Now ask what the second mic buys you. On a dense track, two guitars, bass, drums, vocals, the room air from the second mic is the first thing to disappear in the mix. You did the work and took on the phase risk for a quality nobody will hear once the band shows up.

I went in assuming one mic was the budget version of two. I had it backwards. For a wall of rhythm guitar, one mic was not the compromise. It was the better answer. It sat in the track tighter, it never phased against itself, and I spent the saved time on the part instead of on lining up waveforms. The two-mic setup earned its keep only when the guitar was the whole show. A solo record. A sparse arrangement where you can actually hear the room. The song tells you which one you are making.

If the Guitar Is the Main Event

When the guitar is exposed and you do want size, you have two honest options.

Add a room mic several feet back and commit to aligning it, by ear or in the DAW, so it stops fighting the close mic. Pick which speaker the close mic is on first, because on a multi-speaker cab they do not all sound alike. That choice comes before this one and it is covered in which speaker to mic.

Or skip the second mic and add the space later, with a reverb you can dial and undo. For a busy mix that is usually the smarter move, because the room is a layer you control instead of a live decision you are stuck with.

Mic Choice Comes After Placement

People skip straight to the mic. Which mic, what brand, ribbon or condenser. Mic choice is real, and a ribbon or a condenser does change the character. That comparison is its own post. But it comes after placement, not before. A perfectly chosen mic in a bad spot still sounds bad. An SM57 in the right spot sounds like a record.

If you are working in a modeler instead of micing a live cab, the same idea holds. A cab block or an impulse response is one mic at one spot, captured and frozen. You pick the IR the same way you would slide the SM57, by listening for bright-versus-dark and choosing the one that fits the part. The physical version just lets you move it yourself.

One mic. The right spot. The real part. Get those three and the recording is done. The second mic can wait until the song asks for it, and most songs never do.

Frequently asked

Can you record a great guitar tone with just one SM57?
Yes. Most of the recorded electric guitar you have heard was tracked with a single dynamic mic, very often an SM57, a couple inches from the speaker. The mic is good enough that it stops being the limiting factor. Placement is what changes the sound, so spend your time moving the mic, not shopping for a better one.
Where do you put an SM57 on a guitar amp?
Start at the edge of the dust cap, the small dome in the center of the speaker, pointed straight at the grille and about two to three inches off the cloth. That spot is the balance point between the bright center and the dark outer cone. Move it toward the center for more attack, toward the edge for more body.
Should the SM57 be on-axis or off-axis?
Start on-axis, pointed straight at the speaker, because that is the brightest and most direct sound. If the top end is harsh or icy, angle the mic about 45 degrees off-axis. That rolls off the hard upper frequencies without dulling the note, and it is the fastest fix for a fizzy high-gain track.
How far should the mic be from the speaker grille?
Close. Two to three inches off the cloth is a good start. Right up against the grille gives you the most low end from proximity effect and the tightest sound. Pulling back several inches lets in a little room air and thins the bass. For one mic going into a mix, stay close.
Do I need a second microphone on the cab?
Usually not. A second mic at a different distance can comb-filter against the first and carve a hole in the tone, and the room air it adds tends to vanish under drums and bass anyway. Add a second mic when the guitar is the main event, like a solo record or a sparse mix. For a wall of rhythm guitar, one mic is cleaner and faster.